Types of Tartans
Culture

Types of Tartans: Ancient, Modern, and More Variants

by Aimee Li on Jun 20, 2024

I. Introduction

Tartans are more than just patterns on fabric; they are woven symbols of Scottish heritage and identity. These types of tartans have a captivating blend of colors and intricate designs and a rich history that dates back centuries and holds profound significance. But did you know there are different types of tartans, each with unique characteristics?


In this article, we'll explore the fascinating world of types of tartans, focusing on ancient, modern, and more variants.

II. Understanding Types of Tartans: An Overview

A. What is a Tartan?

What is a Tartan?
Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com

A tartan is a fabric design comprising intersecting horizontal and vertical stripes in various colors. Originating from Scotland, types of tartans are historically associated with Scottish clans, with each pattern representing a specific family or region. The distinctive checkered design of tartans is more than just aesthetic; it's a symbol of identity, heritage, and tradition.

B. Types of Tartans: The Origins of Scottish Tartan

The beginnings of Scottish tartan designs can be linked to the ancient Celtic communities living in the Scottish Highlands. Starting as simple and basic, these designs developed into the complex and visually appealing patterns we are familiar with today.

Glen Affric tartan
The Glen Affric tartan (c. 1500–1600 AD), discovered in a peat bog in the 1980s ( Source: Alan Richardson, Pix-AR.co.uk, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Evolution of Tartan Patterns: Tartan patterns originated in the 16th century when Scottish Highlanders started creating their designs using dyes and wool from their local area. At first, these patterns were basic and functional, and different regions or clans developed their unique styles.

Highland man and woman in tartan, c. 1603–1616, by Hieronymus Tielsch
Highland man and woman in tartan, c. 1603–1616, by Hieronymus Tielsch (Source: Heironymus Tielsch (or Tielssch), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Influence of Geography and Landscape: Scotland's varied terrains significantly impacted the development of Scottish tartan designs. The shades and colors were created using natural dyes sourced from the area's plants, berries, and minerals. The rough landscape influenced the choice of earthy colors like browns, greens, and blues, while the bright reds and yellows were inspired by the heather and gorse that covered the Highlands.

Massed bands at the Glengarry Highland Games, Maxville, Ontario, Canada, 2006
Massed bands at the Glengarry Highland Games, Maxville, Ontario, Canada, 2006 (Source: D. Gordon E. Robertson, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

Clan Affiliations and Traditions: As the tradition of Scottish tartans developed, each clan created its distinct design to showcase its heritage and identity visually. These unique types of tartans were carefully protected and handed down from generation to generation, serving as symbols of pride and loyalty to the clan.


 📜 You can also see more of What is a Tartan? Unveiling the History and Symbolism Woven into Plaid

C. The difference between “Tartan” and “Plaid”

What's the difference between a plaid and a tartan? While plaid pattern and tartan share many similarities, it is important to recognize the specific differences between these two terms.

The difference between “Tartan” and “Plaid”
Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com

"Tartan" is a term used for a fabric that features distinct plaid patterns made up of colored squares and intersecting lines. It is important because it is linked to a specific clan. This material is mainly crafted from 100% pure worsted wool and is frequently utilized in creating kilts, highland wear accessories, and garments.

The difference between “Tartan” and “Plaid”
Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com

Conversely, "plaid" is a design made up of vertical and horizontal stripes in different widths and colors that cross each other to form a grid pattern. It can feature multiple colors and is commonly associated with flannel shirts. Numerous plaid and checked designs are accessible, with many being well-suited for a farmhouse aesthetic.


Although plaid and tartan are more common in contemporary fashion, tartan continues to be a significant element in traditional Scottish clothing and is strongly connected to Scottish culture and traditions.

III. Types of Tartans

1. Types of Tartans: Ancient Tartans

Ancient tartans, known as "Old Tartans," are the oldest documented patterns. Before 1860, dyes from animals and plants were used to color fabrics, resulting in softer hues like mossy greens and sky blues. The Ancient tartans are said to display the patterns more prominently with brighter contrasts compared to Modern tartans, which have a more orangey-red tone. Despite variations in shades, the pattern or sett stays consistent within each tartan, as seen in examples such as the Ancient MacDonald tartan of Clan MacDonald and the Ancient Campbell tartan of Clan Campbell. 

Clan Mackay Blue Ancient Tartan
Clan Mackay Blue Ancient Tartan (Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com)

2. Types of Tartans: Modern Tartans

As the art of tartan weaving evolved, designers and weavers began experimenting with new color combinations and intricate patterns, giving rise to modern tartans. Modern tartans feature more vibrant and bold colors, thanks to chemical dyes that emerged in the 19th century. The gentle shades of green and blue transform into a deep bottle of green and navy blue, while the reds turn into a vibrant scarlet. These types of tartans are often contemporary, making them popular in traditional and fashionable settings. Notable modern tartans include the Royal Stewart Tartan and Clan Fraser Tartan. 

Clan Fraser Modern Tartan
Clan Fraser Modern Tartan (Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com)

3. Types of Tartans: Hunting Tartan

Some clans do not have the camouflage tartans known as the Hunting Tartans. These types of tartans often feature earthy tones and muted colors that blend seamlessly with the natural surroundings, providing camouflage and concealment for hunters. Examples of tartans like the Black Watch Tartan or Clan Gunn Tartan have patterns that provide camouflage, while the Fraser tartan of Clan Fraser, primarily red, would not be practical for hunters trying to blend in.

Clan Fraser Hunting Tartan
Clan Fraser Hunting Tartan (Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com)

4. Types of Tartans: Dress Tartan

The Dress Tartans were created for special occasions and traditional Scottish dancing. These types of tartans are known for their bold colors and intricate designs, making them visually stunning and eye-catching. The sett or pattern of the tartan remains consistent, but the primary color is changed to white, or additional white is added to make it more vibrant and elegant. Dress tartans are often used to make formal kilts, evening dresses, and other fancy outfits. Scots sometimes break tradition using yellow thread instead of white, creating unique variations like the MacLeod Dress Modern of Clan MacLeod and Barclay Dress Modern tartans of Clan Barclay.

Clan MacDonald Dress Tartan
Clan MacDonald Dress Tartan (Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com)

5. Types of Tartans: Weathered Tartan

Tartans that have been weathered, also referred to as “Muted Tartan”, belong to a distinct group that replicates the aged and worn look of old fabrics caused by exposure to elements like wind, rain, and sunlight. This results in soft, faded colors such as olive greens, browns, and pale blues, with red hues leaning towards pink. Weathered tartans are popular for their rustic appeal and ability to tell a story. Some well-known examples of weathered tartans are the Weathered MacKenzie of Clan MacKenzie and the Weathered Wallace designs of Clan Wallace. 

Clan Mackay Weathered Tartan
Clan Mackay Weathered Tartan (Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com)
Explore Your Clan in Tartan Vibes Clothing

IV. Comparative Analysis of Types of Tartans

While Types of Tartans share the common characteristic of being woven patterns, the various types of tartans differ in color schemes, design complexity, and intended purposes.

A. Differences Between Types of Tartans

Scottish tartan patterns are iconic patterns that hold deep cultural and historical significance. Types of Tartans are not only central to traditional Scottish attire but also have various applications and meanings depending on their type. Understanding the differences between types of tartans reveals the rich tapestry of Scottish culture and the many ways these patterns are woven into the fabric of everyday life, from clan affiliations to modern fashion.

Differences Between Types of Tartans
Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com

B. When is tartan used?

Types of Tartans are versatile and can be used in various settings and for different purposes. Here are some common scenarios where Types of Tartans are commonly seen:

When is tartan used?
Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com
  • Ancient Tartans: Ideal for traditional events, historical reenactments, and those with a deep appreciation for heritage.
  • Modern Tartans: Perfect for contemporary fashion, casual wear, and individuals who enjoy bold, eye-catching designs.

  • Weathered Tartans: These types of tartans are often used in interior design projects, adding warmth and character to living spaces.

  • Dress Tartan: These types of tartans are often used in Formal Events and incorporated into kilts, evening gowns, and accessories.

  • Hunting Tartan: These types of tartans are often used in Outdoor Activities, providing camouflage and blending with natural surroundings.

V. Symbolism and Meaning in Types of Tartans

Symbolism and Meaning in Types of Tartans
Source: Tartanvibesclothing.com

Beyond their visual appeal, types of Tartans hold deep symbolic significance and convey messages of identity, heritage, and belonging. Each tartan pattern is closely associated with a specific clan, family, or region, visually representing one's lineage and cultural roots.


In Scottish culture, wearing a particular tartan is a way of honoring one's ancestors and expressing pride in one's heritage. The colors and patterns within a tartan can also carry symbolic meanings, with certain hues representing virtues, values, or natural elements significant to the clan or region.


 📜 Please also see more of Top 10 Scottish Tartans You Should Know About: Explore Your Tartan Heritage

VI. Conclusion

The world of  Types of Tartans is a captivating tapestry woven with threads of history, tradition, and creativity. From the rugged charm of hunting tartans to the vibrant elegance of dress tartans or the understated sophistication of muted tartans, each variant tells a unique story and carries its symbolic meaning.


As the appreciation for types of tartans continues to transcend cultural boundaries, these woven masterpieces bridge the past and present, connecting us to our roots while inspiring new expressions of art and design. The enduring appeal of tartans lies in their ability to blend tradition with innovation, honoring our heritage's richness while embracing the ever-evolving tapestry of human creativity.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between ancient and modern tartans?

Ancient tartans feature earthy, faded colors from natural dyes, while modern tartans have vibrant colors from synthetic dyes.

What is the oldest known tartan?

The oldest known tartan is the Falkirk Tartan, dating back to the 3rd century AD. It was discovered in a jar of coins near Falkirk, Scotland.

Are tartans only used for kilts?

No, tartans are used in various forms, including scarves, shawls, blankets, and even home decor. They are a versatile fabric suitable for many applications.

What is the difference between a plaid and a tartan?

Both plaids and tartans are woven of stripes that meet at 90-degree angles. Tartans have an identical pattern of stripes running vertically and horizontally, resulting in overlapping square grids. Regular plaids are not necessarily the same in both directions, with variations in color, size, and pattern of stripes.

What is the most popular tartan?

Royal Stewart


So the royal family later adopted the Balmoral tartan (said to have been designed by Prince Albert), traditionally worn only by them and the Queen's piper! Nowadays, Royal Stewart is the most widely produced tartan commercially, thanks to its striking red color scheme.

Aimee Li Author

Aimee Li

An author dedicated to exploring the rich history, vibrant culture,... of the Scottish clans. As an avid historian and fashion enthusiast, I have always been fascinated by Scotland's heritage and the timeless elegance of its traditional attire. Join me on this journey through the highlands and lowlands, as we delve into the heart of Scottish legacy together.

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